THOUGHTS ON ANCHORING AND RAFTING

The following notes were prepared for a Corinthian Race/cruise, yet the observations on the skills and courtesies of tha arts of anchor handling and rafting are very pertinent to local cruising.

First, anchoring. We all know the importance of scope  -  that it should be measured from deck-height and should presume water depth at high tide. Due to the crowd of boats in some anchorages, we may be tempted to use less scope than the usual 7 to 1, in order to reduce swinging room. If you do, at least set your anchor on a long scope before you shorten up, and be especially sure to use an appropriate anchor for the bottom. An all - chain rode or at least a long piece of it in front of the nylon line is a help here.

Our old favorite, the CQR plow, isn’t really too good in some of the soft silty muds of our cruising grounds; much better is the Danforth-type (or perhaps the Bruce which tends to reset better after a wind-shift or change-of-tide, and which is reputed to hold well on moderate scope). Don’t forget the traditional “kellet,” a weight sent down the rode on a messenger line, which can fool a short rode into thinking it is a long one, particularly in a breeze and chop.

If you are anchored first, you have the right (obligation?) to tell a newly-arrived boat if you feel it is anchoring too close, over your anchor, or within your swinging circle (especially if your scopes are different lengths, as in chain-vs.-rope, two-anchors-out-vs.-one, kellet-vs.-plain rode, etc:). And the recent arrival has a duty to respond immediately.

Some boats buoy their anchors, especially if they anticipate weather and feel they may want to put a second anchor out later. Do not pick up little buoys! You nay be lifting someone s anchor. And if you are the buoyer (is that a word?) use a non - floating line, no longer than depth at high water, and with a weight tied into the line half - way down to diminish swinging room and keep it out of others’ propellers.

Rafting is, like anchoring, a highly judgmental art, and only a fool would attempt to treat it with a few cursory remarks. So here goes

Be reluctant to raft at night, even in calm weather. If you choose to raft through the night, be prepared to break off quickly at the request of the anchored boat.

Be prepared yourself to put out an anchor or two; pre - plot the way to clear water and enter the waypoints into your GPS or Loran; raft only with someone in whom you have confidence, both as to anchoring skill and as to seaman’s judgment.  Need it even be mentioned that the larger boat should be the anchored boat, that the gear should be the heaviest available, and that the weather auguries should be benign?

Sometimes an anchored boat will put out fenders as an invitation to raft alongside, but the approaching boat has the responsibility to ask permission, determine desired side, rig all necessary lines and fenders before starting the approach.. The approach must be made deliberately, timed to the swing of the anchored boat, from a shallow angle off the quarter. The approaching boat must NEVER carry its way across the bow of the anchored boat (as in docking, a bad angle is less of a sin than momentum at the wrong time, so don’t try to use late power to fix a bad angle).

As a matter of traditional courtesy, avoid walking through the cockpit of a boat rafted alongside another boat unless you’re specifically invited  -  cross on deck ahead of the mast.

Sailboats rafted together should stagger their masts so rigs won’t clash if boats roll, and boats of different sizes and shapes should be careful lest a higher toe rail roll down and hit a lower stanchion, rail, etc. And, in breaking a raft, especially in the dark or in a breeze, check for lines in the water before going into gear (ask us the story about four large Corinthian boats, rafted, dragging down onto us in Coeckles Harbor, all propellers fouled  -  at night in a bit of wind).

Dick Woods

EVENTIDE